This abridged testimony by Phil Read-Shaw relates to an experience on Krizevac when he first went to Medjugorje some years ago. The full story, as well as an inspirational musical recording produced by Phil after his visit, can be found at the website: Gospa Oratorio.
• Our pilgrimage leader had decided to spend the night in prayer on Cross Mountain. He spotted me in the bar and, quite rightly, made oblique comments about it ‘being late and a heavy schedule, tomorrow’. On learning of his plans to go to Cross Mountain I asked him to hang on until I finished my drink. He, no doubt thinking that I had drank more than enough already, said he wasn’t going to wait, “Come now if you want to come with me.” I had always been brought up with the Victorian edict,
waste not, want not, and this particularly applied to alcoholic drinks as far as I was concerned. I’d paid for the drink so Id drink it! So off he went into the night.
About half an hour later I left the bar and decided to go up Cross Mountain, but before setting off I went to sit by the beautiful white-stone statue of Our Lady, outside the parish church of St James. Apart from a taxi driver asleep across the bench seat of his old Mercedes taxi, I appeared to be the only person in the whole of Medjugorje. It was a black, moonless sky, lit only by thousands of twinkling little stars. There was a breathtaking, all-pervading peace about the village.
The words of that beautiful Christmas carol,
O little town of Bethlehem came to mind, and for the very first time in my life I found I was praying to Our Lady for her intercession.

After about 20 minutes in peaceful prayer to Our Lady I had to decide whether to go back to my hotel to sleep, or go up Cross Mountain. Commonsense dictated that I go to bed; it was well past midnight by then. However, caught up in the fervour of the aftermath of my prayers to Our Lady, I decided I still wanted to climb Cross Mountain. So with a deep breath and best foot forward, I started to walk the mile or so journey to the base of the mountain.
I’d been there once before, as part of a small party a couple of days earlier, and thought that I knew the way. I picked the right road out of the village and patiently walked alone in the darkness. I’m sure that I didn’t pass anyone or, for that matter, no one passed me, although I have a dim recollection of perhaps two or three cars passing. I got to the T-junction about a mile outside the village and with great confidence turned left.
I walked and walked, then walked and walked some more, until I had to admit that I was lost and had taken the wrong turn at the junction. I retraced my steps and after an age I was back to the junction. At that moment a cock crowed. My instant reaction was, “How biblical is this?” and I struggled in the darkness to read my watch. It was about ten minutes to four; I had been walking for between three and four hours. Perhaps it was the Lord’s way of helping me to work off any alcohol in my system.
Again I needed to make a decision – should I go back to my hotel and get some much-needed sleep, or should I go up Cross Mountain? I took a deep breath; I’d gone this far, and I’d carry on.
It was only months later that I realised that I had been given three opportunities to back out, firstly when I left the bar, secondly after I had prayed at Our Lady’s statue and finally just after the cock crowed in the vicinity of the junction. I set off to walk the last few hundred yards to the base of Cross Mountain. Suddenly I became aware that a lady dressed in a long dark, full-length hooded cloak or coat was walking about ten yards ahead of me. Whilst I never saw her face from beginning to end, I had an impression that her hair was brown rather than black and her skin colour was quite pale. The only detail I can give with any certainty was that she had strong sturdy ankles and she was wearing robust, old-fashioned shoes, the type that no western lady would be seen dead in today.
They were built to last for years, with no concession to transient fashion. English readers will know what I mean if I refer to them as
Widow Twanky pantomime dame shoes. I didn’t notice at the time but, whilst I could see her feet walking along the road in front of me, it’s only now, as I write this, that I realise that I couldn’t hear her footsteps. The thought crossed my mind that this lady shouldn’t be out alone in the dead of the night like this. Blame my lack of imagination, but it never occurred to me that she was anything other than a local peasant women.
I followed her the remaining few hundred yards to the apron area at the base of Cross Mountain. As soon as I tried to walk across the small stones of this relatively flat area I knew had bitten off more than I could chew. This was by far the easiest part of the climb; in fact, at this stage it was only a walk, yet because of the dark and cold night dew on the stones I was in grave danger of doing myself serious harm. To make matters even worse, I was wearing my favourite comfortable, casual shoes and the soles had been worn glass-smooth over the years. I couldn’t really see where I was walking. Really, I wasn’t walking, I was slipping and sliding. I knew I would need assistance.
It was quite a scary moment. I approached the lady who was now standing by the signs to the left of the apron area. Firstly, in English, then haltingly in Italian, the local second language, I attempted to explain that I was a married man so as to try and put her mind at rest and that I wasn’t about to attack her. After all, it was the middle of the night!
I found myself, me an arrogant male chauvinist, asking this total stranger, this unknown lady, if I could go up the mountain with her. Without saying a word she produced a light and proceeded to light my way. She walked in front of me the whole way shining the beam of light behind her to assist me. Every time I stopped, she stopped, and every time I started, she started again. The only time she turned the
beam forward was when we stopped at each of the large bronze plaques depicting a scene from the Stations of the Cross. She would point the beam forward for a while so as to illuminate the scene for my benefit, and turn the beam off. Then she climbed the pile of boulders supporting the plaques and caressed the faces of all the participants in the tableaux, with great reverence and devotion. I had the extraordinary sensation that this lady knew the people depicted, personally. I can’t prove what happened either way, but please take my word on this; it was one of those
hairs-standing-up-on-the-back-of-the-neck moments; like watching a blind person stroking the face of a loved one. It wasn’t at all frightening, just achingly beautiful to see. She was an object lesson in love and total humility. I’d never understood before, humility doesn’t necessarily mean servitude, it’s actually a selfless act of extreme love.
After she had spent a couple of minutes caressing the tableaux she would then lie prostrate on the ground for another five or ten minutes in prayer. If you have never been to Medjugorje you will not know that the route of the
Way of the Cross winds up the mountain like a dried-up riverbed. You don’t walk up, you pick your way using the boulders as stepping stones. Everyone else I have ever seen on the mountain, either finds a smooth rock to sit or kneel on, or when they pray support their weight by only going down on one knee. In fact it’s so rocky many pray standing with just their head bowed. Not this lady, she was spread-eagled on the rocks, and because of the length of time she prayed, it must have been distinctly uncomfortable, if not down-right painful. But I never got any indication it was done for gratuitous display, it seemed to me it was a genuine expression of total love and humility.

It normally takes about an hour to climb Cross Mountain; it took us about two. There is a huge, white-painted, concrete cross at the summit and there are a number of steps leading up to its base. The first faint hints of the new day were starting to paint streaks across the sky as I stood behind the kneeling lady kneeling a few short feet in front of me. After about ten minutes I felt that I couldn’t stand there any longer, I just had to go and find somewhere to sit!
Moving up to the lady’s right shoulder I knew I had to thank her for being my guide and protector. There was no way I could have made it without her help. I didn’t want to disturb her but I owed her my sincere thanks. Summoning up my smattering of Italian I said, “Bella donna, a mille gracia,” which I fervently hope means,
Beautiful lady, a thousand thank you’s. At that, without looking up from her prayers, she gently raised her right hand and waved very gracefully to me, as if to say, “Don’t mention it.”
As you can imagine, I was quite shaken by the total experience and I went over to the flat area behind the cross to find a boulder to sit on. A few minutes later our team leader, who had been on an all-night vigil on the mountain, was surprised to stumble across me and offered to walk back down with me. Before we started down, I asked him, “Can you see that lady praying on the steps at the base of the cross?” He was a bit puzzled as to why I should ask the question, but peering through the gloom and to my great relief, he said “Yes.” I was starting to worry that I had imagined the whole thing.
On the way down I told him what had happened to me and at one point we bumped into Father Slavko, a priest of the Medjugorje parish. Our leader, who had led a number of previous pilgrimages, knew him and engaged him in conversation, trying to arrange for him to address our party with one of his talks. All the time they were talking, Father Slavko appeared to be looking intently at me. It was most disconcerting – it felt like he was reading my soul! At the bottom of the mountain, I turned to my friend and said, “Do you know, I never saw that lady’s face from beginning to end. Did you see her face?” He replied in a matter-of-fact tone, “No, but when we stopped to talk to Father Slavko she passed us, and I caught her eyes, they were full of love and seemed to say, ‘You’re safe now.’“ He had been on so many trips nothing seemed to faze him.
Six months later, I was received into the Catholic Church. Just prior to this I invited friends and those that could make it from my ‘pilgrim family’ to a small party at my home. I was explaining to a few people there about what had happened to me on the mountain and turning to the leader of the pilgrimage who happened to be stood by me I queried if he saw where the lady had gone. His reply blew me away. “No,” and then in his matter-of-fact-way he continued, “The last I saw of her was as she floated off down the mountain.”
People ask me who or what I think I saw on the mountain, and in a sense it doesn’t matter. Whoever or whatever I saw was undeniably and literally heaven-sent. Was it a devout local lady, was it my Guardian Angel, or was it Our Lady herself? I make no claims, but in my heart I feel I know.